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For Spring Summer 2027, Satoshi Kondo explores Ma, the Japanese concept of the space or interval between things, as a physical element of clothing. Titled “Figure of Ma”, the collection considers what happens in the space between body and fabric, allowing volume, movement and air to become part of the design.

Presented at the Dojo de Paris, the collection begins with the manipulation of large pieces of fabric, transforming them into rounded, balloon-like forms that shift with the body. In Balloon Twist, hand-twisted and bound fabric produces crinkled volumes, while Ballooning uses exceptionally lightweight nylon to create garments that expand as the wearer moves. Elsewhere, Draped Ensemble and Billow reduce construction to the manipulation of fabric itself, creating silhouettes defined as much by the space surrounding the body as by the body underneath.

Pleating remains central to the collection, but is approached through movement. Tempo Pleats introduces horizontal pleats that respond to walking, while Caprice combines differently coloured pieces whose surfaces appear to move independently. New techniques also expand the house’s vocabulary, including Cocoon Body, developed with Wacoal using three-dimensional molding technology to create forms around the torso.

The collection’s material experimentation extends into seamless knitwear, translucent organza and hand-applied marbling, reinforcing its interest in surfaces that appear fluid and constantly in motion. A collaboration with pianist Koki Nakano further connects the clothes to rhythm and movement.

What makes “Figure of Ma” compelling is that its concept is not imposed upon the clothes. The idea of ma is embedded in their construction: in the air held by a garment, the distance between fabric and skin, and the way a silhouette changes as the body moves. Kondo continues Issey Miyake’s longstanding investigation of transforming fabric into form, while shifting attention toward the space created between the two.

Photos: Vogue / Go Runway

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Highlights from the Collection

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