Comme des Garçons Homme Plus presented for Fall/Winter 2026, a collection centered on altered tailoring and controlled construction. Working largely in black, Rei Kawakubo focused on garments that were split, folded back, or left open to reveal their internal structures. The emphasis remained on cut, layering, and surface treatment.
The show progressed through a sequence of predominantly black looks, occasionally interrupted by gray. This limited palette directed attention to form and detail. Tail coats in crushed velvet and shiny wool nylon featured ruffled formations at the collar, while some were divided into narrow strips. Zipped dungarees in gray narrowed at the ankle and were layered beneath jackets whose yokes folded back into themselves, exposing inner pocket structures at the hips.
Styling choices reinforced the sense of disruption. Flyaway wigs and hockey masks reduced individual identity, placing focus on silhouette and construction. Fabric elements extended outward from the body, emphasizing volume and movement.
Text appeared sparingly. “My energy comes from freedom” was painted in white lettering on black polished, detached-upper shoes, continuing a familiar Comme des Garçons motif. Materials carried much of the visual impact. A snake-print lurex jacquard was transformed into jackets with two inner layers and two sets of lapels, worn over shorts with diagonally slanted hems. An open-backed jacket with a lace-covered cut-out introduced contrast within the structured framework.
The closing looks shifted the collection’s visual register. After the extended sequence of black, white emerged abruptly. Cratered suiting and a shaggy white dress introduced a sharp contrast in texture and tone, bringing the collection to a close.
Photos: Vogue / Go Runway
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Highlights from the Collection
