For his Fall/Winter 2025 collection, “Echoes”, Angolan designer Ihanny Luquessa presents a focused and emotionally driven study of clothing as a response to personal transformation. Currently completing his fashion design degree in Portugal, Luquessa has developed a design language rooted in minimalism, deconstruction, and a strong connection to performance and identity. His collections often reflect an internal process, using clothing to express the tension between vulnerability and self-protection.
In “Echoes”, Luquessa explores how connection shapes the self, particularly what remains after that connection fades. The collection is built around two visual and emotional phases, defined by black and white. These phases reflect a progression: from openness to collapse, and ultimately to renewal.
The white phase is constructed from cotton and soft twill. These lighter fabrics represent fragility and exposure, suggesting the early stages of intimacy where the self is unguarded. In contrast, the black phase introduces heavier materials like wool, structured twill, and poplin. These pieces reflect grief and resilience, acting as a kind of emotional armor. The garments in this phase are more rigid and protective, signaling a shift toward internal reconstruction.
Three key looks capture the direction of the collection. A white shirt with four exaggerated collars suggests the weight and complexity of emotional experience, structured yet excessive. A sculptural black wool coat offers a sense of containment and protection, wrapping the body in a controlled and deliberate silhouette. The final look, abstract and almost fully concealing the wearer, represents withdrawal and the possibility of starting over.
While “Echoes” remains consistent with Luquessa’s interest in emotional narrative, it also shows a more structured and refined approach to silhouette and material. The contrast between black and white, lightness and weight, is not only symbolic but functional, reinforcing the emotional story through construction.
ABOUT Ihanny Luquessa
Ihanny Luquessa is an Angolan designer currently based in Portugal, where he is completing his degree in Fashion Design. His work explores form through an experimental and minimalist approach, often deconstructing elements of the classical men’s wardrobe and reimagining them with subtle simplicity. Balancing tradition with a forward-thinking sensibility, his design language is both thoughtful and intentional.
Deeply influenced by performance art, minimalism, and the emotional narratives that shape each collection, Luquessa’s work seeks to move beyond conventional ideas of identity. His garments function as part of a larger, singular narrative — one that reflects an ongoing search for clarity, expression, and transformation.
Photos: Courtesy of Ihanny Luquesa
Photography: Rui Aguiar @rui12aguiar
Models: @mzl_0723, @sib_bemol
HIGHLIGHTS FROM THE COLLECTION
