Junya Watanabe’s Spring/Summer 2026 women’s show in Paris reminded us of the power of black, not as uniform but as structure. The darker looks, presented toward the end of the show, revealed his instinct for precision and transformation, where the act of construction became…
Yohji Yamamoto’s Spring/Summer 2026 show in Paris made black once again the starting point and the entire vocabulary through which everything else was expressed. The collection was built from a series of layered constructions that shifted gently between the…
From Rick Owens: “This women’s collection is named “Temple”, as was the men’s collection shown in June, coinciding with the opening of my retrospective, titled “Temple” of Love at the Musée Palais Galliera right across the street. A retrospective summons up thoughts of…
Matières Fécales returned to Paris Fashion Week with their sophomore collection, presented at Place Vendôme and titled “Hannah”. The show was conceived as a tribute to co-founder Hannah Rose Dalton, whose uncompromising presence and expression have long been central to the…
For Fall/Winter 2025/26, Yuima Nakazato presented “Glacier”, a collection informed by the physical extremes of the Arctic and a growing concern for the body’s vulnerability in both natural and constructed environments. Shown at the Palais de Tokyo in Paris…
At Paris Fashion Week, Ziggy Chen unveiled “Pritrike”, a collection that builds on his signature approach to deconstructed tailoring and material experimentation. The title combines the words “primal” and “strike,” suggesting a natural force that is both vital and understated…
Yohji Yamamoto doesn’t merely respond to the moment, he addresses something more enduring, less visible. His work moves through time rather than being confined by it. For several years now, his Spring/Summer menswear collections have carried a recurring message, one part…
From Rick Owens: “This men’s collection is named Temple, after my retrospective, Temple of Love (“love” is a word really worth promoting right now), which will be opening immediately after the runway show at the Musée Palais Galliera right across the street. A retrospective summons…
There are few designers whose work transcends the cyclical nature of fashion. Yohji Yamamoto, now in his eighties, is one of them. His Fall/Winter 2024 women’s collection, shown in Paris, felt like both a continuation and an intimate revelation, a poetic meditation on time…
In the gilded salons of Hôtel Le Marois, a different kind of beauty took shape. Shadows moved against mirrored walls, elongated figures stepping forward with a precision that felt both ancient and alien. It was here, in this fractured reverie of the 19th century, that Matières…
From Rick Owens: “For our men’s collection, shown 6 weeks ago, I wrote the following:’Naming this collection Concordians, I was thinking about my 22 years of traveling to our factory in this small industrial Italian town, Concordia. And not just alone but with my team…
From Rick Owens: “Naming this collection Concordians, I was thinking about my 22 years of traveling to our factory in this small industrial Italian town, Concordia. And not just alone, but with my team, all traveling from their respective glittering cities—to live here in a kind of studious isolation…