Tonight’s Yohji Yamamoto show opened with the designer himself singing Leonard Cohen’s “I’m Your Man” on the soundtrack. The singer once said that the song was an answer of sorts to the perennial question, “what does a woman want?” Cohen was on the side of flexibility: “If you want a lover /I’ll do anything you ask me to / And if you want another kind of love…

For the Women’s ‘Luxor’ runway collection, we are one year into a war and witnessing how inspiring dignity in the face of aggression can be. Times like these might call for a respectful formality and sobriety with moments of delicacy as reminders of what is at risk and at stake. Clothes have been reduced to the simplest of shapes. there’s a gentle…”

From Rick Owens: “If Venice, Italy, has been my summer retreat then Luxor, Egypt, has become my winter retreat. The vastness and scale line up with the Cecil B. Demille fantasy of Egypt in the movie The Ten Commandments (art directed by Paul Iribe!), which I watch nightly while working out with Brutalismus 3000 pumping through my earphones. Merging real…”