Tonight’s Yohji Yamamoto show opened with the designer himself singing Leonard Cohen’s “I’m Your Man” on the soundtrack. The singer once said that the song was an answer of sorts to the perennial question, “what does a woman want?” Cohen was on the side of flexibility: “If you want a lover /I’ll do anything you ask me to / And if you want another kind of love…

For the Women’s ‘Luxor’ runway collection, we are one year into a war and witnessing how inspiring dignity in the face of aggression can be. Times like these might call for a respectful formality and sobriety with moments of delicacy as reminders of what is at risk and at stake. Clothes have been reduced to the simplest of shapes. there’s a gentle…”