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Junya Watanabe’s Spring/Summer 2026 women’s show in Paris reminded us of the power of black, not as uniform but as structure. The darker looks, presented toward the end of the show, revealed his instinct for precision and transformation, where the act of construction became…

Yohji Yamamoto’s Spring/Summer 2026 show in Paris made black once again the starting point and the entire vocabulary through which everything else was expressed. The collection was built from a series of layered constructions that shifted gently between the…

From Rick Owens: “This women’s collection is named “Temple”, as was the men’s collection shown in June, coinciding with the opening of my retrospective, titled “Temple” of Love at the Musée Palais Galliera right across the street. A retrospective summons up thoughts of…

Matières Fécales returned to Paris Fashion Week with their sophomore collection, presented at Place Vendôme and titled “Hannah”. The show was conceived as a tribute to co-founder Hannah Rose Dalton, whose uncompromising presence and expression have long been central to the…

“Every catastrophe carries within it a rebirth”. With “Scorie”, Chronos Corps envisioned a world rebuilt from the fragments of collapse, where the scars of catastrophe became the vocabulary of dress. The collection translated remnants of a post-apocalyptic terrain into silhouettes…

Hikari no Yami’s Spring/Summer 2026 collection, “Chapter 9: The Invisible Man”, confronts the uneasy space between recognition and erasure. Drawing on Ralph Ellison’s “The Invisible Man” and Frantz Fanon’s “Black Skin, White Masks”, creative director Jakarie Whitaker examines the…

German-born designer Melitta Baumeister established her eponymous label in New York in 2013, positioning herself with an approach that treated clothing as a study of structure rather than surface. She graduated from Parsons’s MFA in Fashion Design, and soon after…

Founded in 2019, Hikari no Yami has carved out a distinct space in contemporary fashion, merging philosophy with design. Its name, translating to “light in darkness, or darkness in light,” captures the brand’s core pursuit: the balance of contradictions. Through avant-garde tailoring…