Hikari no Yami’s Spring/Summer 2026 collection, “Chapter 9: The Invisible Man”, confronts the uneasy space between recognition and erasure. Drawing on Ralph Ellison’s “The Invisible Man” and Frantz Fanon’s “Black Skin, White Masks”, creative director Jakarie Whitaker examines the…
German-born designer Melitta Baumeister established her eponymous label in New York in 2013, positioning herself with an approach that treated clothing as a study of structure rather than surface. She graduated from Parsons’s MFA in Fashion Design, and soon after…
Founded in 2019, Hikari no Yami has carved out a distinct space in contemporary fashion, merging philosophy with design. Its name, translating to “light in darkness, or darkness in light,” captures the brand’s core pursuit: the balance of contradictions. Through avant-garde tailoring…
Dzhus unveils “Anticon” at the one-of-a-kind Concept_11 space, a project speculating on humanity’s “Utopia codes” designed to program happiness. Deciphering her own intimate trauma, Irina Dzhus saturates this cathartic collection with narratives of sociocultural conformism…
Designer Takahiro Miyashita has announced his departure from TakahiroMiyashita TheSoloist., the brand he founded in 2010 as a personal and independent project following his exit from Number (N)ine. With this decision, one of Japanese fashion’s most singular and introspective voices…
At Berlin Fashion Week, Esther Perbandt offered a study in stillness. Her presentation of “Black Tailored Summer”, held on July 3rd at the Fashion Council Germany, moved away from the runway format entirely. Instead, it favored a live, spatial installation that emphasized presence…
Glenn Martens’s highly anticipated debut as creative director of Maison Margiela’s Artisanal line arrived not with spectacle, but with a controlled, confident vision. Shown during Paris Couture Week, the collection reframed the brand’s storied codes through Martens’s own lens…
For the 2023 production “Falling/In Love” at Berlin’s Friedrichstadt-Palast, Jean-Paul Gaultier invited the Montreal-based design duo Matières Fécales to collaborate on an ambitious theatrical vision. The result: a series of twenty costumes that punctuated the stage with…
At the intersection of tradition and invention, the Polimoda Graduate Show 2025 unfolded inside Florence’s industrial cathedral, Stazione Leopolda, marking the official opening of Pitti Uomo 108. What has historically been a proving ground for fledgling designers emerged this season…
The Palais Galliera is holding the first exhibition in Paris dedicated to the work of avant-garde fashion designer Rick Owens. It features collections from his early beginnings in Los Angeles through to his most recent. With a fascination for spiritual ritual, his creations draw on a wide range…
Antwerp-based designer Marcel Sommer approaches fashion with a clear vision: to create clothing that speaks through emotion, texture, and form. With a foundation in bespoke tailoring and patternmaking, followed by four intensive years at the Royal Academy of Fine Arts…
There are designers who dress the world, and then there are those who reimagine it. Boris Bidjan Saberi belongs to the latter. His garments were never just clothes, but propositions. Cut in leather, layered in shadow, speaking in a language that was as much spiritual as it was sartorial…